Microcement has become one of the most searched finishes for Melbourne homes, and it’s easy to see why. It gives you a smooth, joint-free surface that works on floors, walls and even benchtops. If you’re comparing it to tiling, render or paint, this article covers what it actually costs, where it holds up, and where it can let you down.
What is microcement?
Microcement, sometimes called micro cement, is a thin cement-based coating. It’s usually applied at 2 to 3 millimetres thick, so it sits over your existing surface rather than replacing it. You’ll find it on floors, walls, stairs and kitchen benchtops across Melbourne homes.
It’s not paint, and it’s not concrete paint either, though people often confuse the two. Microcement builds up in layers with a trowel. Concrete paint or tile paint just coats the surface. That difference matters when you’re weighing up cost and durability.
How it differs from polished concrete
Polished concrete is ground back from an existing slab. Microcement is applied on top of almost any surface, including tiles. That makes it a realistic option for renovations where pouring a new slab isn’t practical.
How it differs from Venetian plaster
Venetian plaster is a lime-based finish, mostly used on walls for a soft, layered look. Microcement is cement-based and works on floors as well as walls, which makes it far more durable underfoot. If you want a full comparison of Venetian plaster against microcement, our Venetian plaster compared breakdown covers the finish, cost, and where each one suits your space.
Where microcement works
Bathrooms and wet areas
This is where microcement gets the most attention. It creates a seamless bathroom finish across floors and walls with no grout lines to scrub. That said, it still needs a proper waterproofing membrane underneath in wet zones. Microcement itself resists water well, but it isn’t a waterproofing product on its own.
Floors
On floors, microcement holds up to daily foot traffic once it’s sealed correctly. It’s a common alternative to tile paint or painting tiles instead of replacing them, especially in hallways and living areas.
Kitchens and benchtops
Kitchens are trickier. Benchtops see heat, knives, and spills daily, so the sealer choice matters a lot here. A gloss sealer looks sharp but shows scratches. A matt sealer hides wear better but needs more frequent care.
Is microcement cheaper than tiling?
This is the question most people actually want answered. The honest answer is that it depends on the job.
For a small area, tiling is often cheaper because microcement pricing doesn’t scale down well. Installers usually spend a similar number of days on a small bathroom as a larger one, so the price per square metre climbs on smaller jobs.
Here’s a rough guide based on current Melbourne pricing:
| Application | Typical cost per m² (plus GST) |
| Floors | $250 and up |
| Walls | $250 to $500+ |
| Full wet area bathroom | $350 to $550+ |
Material and labour
Most of the cost sits in labour, not material. Microcement is hand trowelled, so it takes skill and time. A trained applicator, proper primer, mesh reinforcement where needed, and a sealer coat all add up before you even get to the finish colour.
What changes the price
Substrate condition changes everything. Applying over sound existing tiles is usually cheaper than starting from bare plasterboard, since less prep is needed. Complex areas like showers with niches or curved walls also push the price up, similar to how acrylic render pricing shifts with wall complexity.
The downsides of microcement
It’s not a perfect material, and it’s worth going in with realistic expectations.
Hairline cracking and substrate movement
Microcement can develop fine hairline cracks if the substrate underneath moves. This isn’t usually a structural issue, but it can be visible, especially on floors over timber subfloors that flex slightly.
Sealing and staining
Without a proper sealer, microcement will stain. Wine, oil, and even some cleaning products can leave marks if the sealer has worn thin. Resealing every few years is standard maintenance, not an occasional extra.
Repairs are harder than tiles
If a tile cracks, you replace one tile. If microcement gets damaged, blending a repair into the existing finish takes skill, and it can be visible if the colour has faded slightly over time.
Can you do microcement yourself?
Short answer: it’s not really a DIY job, and most suppliers will tell you the same.
Where DIY kits usually go wrong
The trowel technique takes practice. Get it wrong, and you’ll see trowel marks, uneven texture, or patchy colour once the sealer goes on. Timing between coats also matters a lot, since applying too early or too late affects how the layers bond. If you’re weighing up a DIY finish against a professional one, it’s worth reading our garage floor paint vs epoxy guide, since a lot of the same DIY versus professional tradeoffs apply there too.
Looking after a microcement surface:
Day-to-day care is simple. Use a pH-neutral cleaner, avoid harsh acids or abrasive scourers, and wipe up spills reasonably promptly in kitchens. Resealing every two to three years keeps the surface protected, though high-traffic floors may need it sooner.
If you’re planning a microcement project and want advice on whether it suits your space, you can get a free quote, and we’ll talk through the substrate, finish and realistic cost before you commit.
Frequently asked questions (FAQs)
Is microcement cheaper than tiling?
For larger areas, it often works out cheaper since there’s less prep work and no grout to lay. On smaller jobs, tiling usually wins because microcement pricing doesn’t scale down well. The final answer really depends on your substrate and the size of the space.
What are the downsides of microcement?
The main issues are hairline cracking from substrate movement and the need for regular resealing. Repairs are also trickier than tiles, since blending a patch into an existing finish takes real skill. None of these are dealbreakers, but they’re worth knowing before you commit.
Can I do microcement myself?
It’s technically possible, but most suppliers don’t recommend it for a reason. The trowel technique takes practice, and getting the timing between coats wrong shows up in the final finish. Dulux and other major suppliers list their microcement ranges as trade-only for this reason.
Does Bunnings sell Dulux microcement?
Bunnings doesn’t carry it on the shelf, but it isn’t a dead end either. Staff on their Workshop community forum have confirmed that Dulux Creativo can be special ordered through the trade desk. It’s still treated as a professional application product rather than a DIY purchase.
Does microcement crack?
Yes, it can develop fine hairline cracks if the substrate underneath shifts or flexes. This is more common over timber subfloors than over solid concrete. In most cases, it’s cosmetic rather than a sign of structural trouble.
Is microcement waterproof?
Not on its own. It resists moisture well once sealed, but it still needs a proper waterproofing membrane underneath in wet areas. This is a requirement under Australian standards, not just a nice-to-have.
How thick is microcement?
It’s typically applied at 2 to 3 millimetres thick, built up across a few thin layers. Despite being so slim, it holds up well once it’s fully cured and sealed. That thinness is actually part of why it works over existing tiles without raising floor height much.
How long does microcement last?
With proper sealing and reasonable care, it can last well over a decade in most homes. High-traffic floors and kitchen benchtops tend to need resealing sooner than walls. Keeping up with maintenance is really what determines how long the finish stays looking good.
